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St. Davids Cathedral: A Little Bit of Magic in Wales’ Smallest City

There are plenty of impressive buildings in Pembrokeshire, but St. Davids Cathedral is in a league of its own. Tucked away in the valley below the tiny city of St Davids, it’s one of those places that makes you stop, look around and think, “How on earth did they build this here?”

And despite the name, you don’t need to be particularly religious to enjoy a visit. In fact, whether you’re a history buff, architecture lover, keen photographer or simply someone who enjoys poking around interesting old buildings, St David’s Cathedral is well worth adding to your Pembrokeshire wanderings.

Where is St. David's Cathedral?

You’ll find the cathedral in the heart of St. Davids, Britain’s smallest city (yes, really!). Its address is St. Davids, Pembrokeshire, SA62 6RD, and it sits at the bottom of the valley, surrounded by the atmospheric ruins and greenery of the cathedral close.

There has been a place of worship here since the sixth century, when St David – or Dewi Sant – established a religious community on the site. The cathedral you see today began life in the late 12th century, so there’s a lot of history packed into those walls.

What is there to see?

Quite a lot, actually.

Start with the building itself. Look up and you’ll spot the rather spectacular wooden nave ceiling, made from Welsh oak in the 1530s. Then there’s the beautiful rose window, medieval stonework, chapels, tombs and the shrine of St. David.

One of the cathedral’s more unusual features is that the building isn’t entirely straight. Thanks to centuries of movement, rebuilding and the occasional architectural mishap, the floor slopes and different parts of the building sit at noticeably different heights. It’s less wonky house and more wonky house with 800 years of history.

You can also explore the cathedral’s cloisters, Treasury and community garden, Dewi’s Acre, and there are online and self-guided tours to help you discover more about the building and its history.

And if you happen to visit when there’s music or a service taking place, stop for a while. There’s something rather lovely about hearing voices or music drifting around a building that has been used for worship for around 1,500 years.

How much does it cost?

Here’s some good news for the holiday budget: there’s no compulsory admission charge.

The cathedral suggests a voluntary donation of £5 per adult, which helps towards the enormous cost of looking after the building and grounds. The cathedral says it costs more than £2,700 every day to maintain everything, so if you enjoy your visit, leaving a little something behind is a lovely way to help keep this extraordinary place open.

When can you visit?

General visiting is currently 10am to 4pm Monday to Saturday and 1pm to 3pm on Sundays. As the cathedral is a working place of worship, opening arrangements can occasionally change because of services, weddings or special events, so it’s worth checking before you set off.

There’s also a cathedral coffee shop run by MamGu Welsh Cakes, open daily from 9.30am to 4pm.

Where can you park?

There isn’t general parking directly at the cathedral, although pre-booked accessible spaces are available. There are pay-and-display car parks at Oriel y Parc, Merrivale and Quickwell Hill, with Oriel y Parc also offering coach parking.

Once parked, St. Davids itself is very walkable, so we’d recommend giving yourself plenty of time rather than treating the cathedral as a quick tick on the sightseeing list.

Our Out West Top Tip

Make a proper afternoon of it.

Visit the cathedral, wander around the atmospheric cathedral close, explore the little streets of St. Davids, stop for coffee and cake, and then head towards the coast. You’re only a short distance from some of the most spectacular scenery in Pembrokeshire, including Whitesands Bay, Caerfai and the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

Because that’s the thing about St. Davids: the cathedral is impressive, but it’s the whole experience that makes the trip special. Ancient stone, tiny streets, big skies, salty sea air and the occasional sheep looking at you as though you’re the tourist.

Not a bad way to spend a day in West Wales.

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